Jerusalem
The Interrogation: Tel Aviv Airport
After bumbling suspiciously at passport control in our sleepy stupor, Nick was taken into the interrogation room for further questioning…
Security: ‘Where will you be staying?”
Nick: “With someone we met online, its “couch surfing”, an online international organization…
Security (quickly): An online international organization? (Terrorists???)
Security: How much money do you have.
Nick: None.
Security: How do you plan to get into the city with no money?
After Nick displayed his credit card, they rolled their eyes and let us through. Through the door, a big cuddly bear offering Valentine flowers didn’t really compensate. Nice try Israel. The real contrast was being welcomed into Ori’s apartment, our awesome couch surfing host. He makes his own bread, museli, beer and chai tea, studies Chinese and loves discussing food!
The Wall
Of which we now have several chunks.
The illegal wall that snakes through “Israel” dividing the Palestinians is high, imposing and well guarded. There is no way you could jump this thing. We went there on a bus full of Palestinians returning to Bethlehem from work in Jerusalem. Despite crowding on ‘the other side,’ the Israeli side is barren and stark. Even Israel’s own high court has condemned the wall.
“The people are divided, but connected by their roof tops”
The three Abrahamic religions collide in the old city of Jerusalem. In the bustling markets that fill the streets, you can buy Jewish skull caps, Catholic prayer beads, and colorful head scarfs. In Athens, the ruins are the past. Here, all the important sites are still used for worship and bitterly fought over. Jews wail at the wall longing for the return of their temple, on the rock where Muslims pray in a massive golden dome “of the rock”. The key Christian site where Jesus (supposedly) was crucified and buried is now contained within one church. Demoninations are still squabbling over it. Just before we came there was a punch up between Greek Orthodox and Armenian monks! Amazingly though, everyone seems to get on with life together in the old city. While the city is religiously segregated into quarters, Muslims still buy their oranges from Jews. Conflict is the exception rather than the rule.
Religion is visible. Most men have crocheted skull caps- these are the ‘conservative jews’.
‘Orthodox’ Jews wear ridiculous huge black hats and funny curling dangly side burns which look incredibly tempting to tug, While muslim women wear Hajib, the Jewish women all look like me, which Nick finds disturbing. I had several people each day come up to me and ask me something in Hebrew.
Where Jesus Walked…
We walked on the Mount of Olives where Jesus preached, through the stations of the cross, and on the site of the old Jewish temple, where the High Priests made sacrifices. We saw two places which groups claimed to be where Jesus and his disciples had the last supper, and the stone where it is said Jesus’s body was lade when he was taken down from the cross.
The site of Jesus’s crucifixion was unrecognizable to my imagination, a clutter of golden glitzy icons, images, and elaborate swinging lamps that look like straight out of Aladin (clearly the protestant coming out in me..). The Mount of Olives gave me tingles though- olives still grow abundantly, I could picture Jesus sitting to teach, in site of the Temple.
More than anything, I got ‘Jerusalem orientated’. Nick and I were reading a verse in Acts the other day, where Luke describes how the ‘whole of Jerusalem’ quickly flocks to crowd angrily around Paul. Suddenly we had a vivid picture of the city in our minds. We could quite easily imagine the population of Jerusalem congregating rapidly as word spread. We walked from one end to the other in 20 minutes- the place just isn’t that big!
Loving you - peace out. At the moment we are celebrating good News from a number of sources from home



